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 09-24-2004, 08:11 Post: 97142
Murf



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 Barn heater

Cap'n, why not just get some local sheet-metal shop to make you up a manifold and heat exchanger for the kerosene heater you already have?

It doesn't have to be perfect or pretty, just enough to enclose and trap most of the CO & smell and send it back outside.

Best of luck.






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 10-01-2004, 07:51 Post: 97453
Murf



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 Barn heater

An old salvaged furnace blower assembly works well also.

Make a vertical plywood duct down the wall furthest from the heat source. Set the fan assembly on top, it's easier to push air than pull it, blowing down the chute. Keep the fan as close to the ceiling as possible. Leave an opening at the bottom facing out into the room.

A friend did this and put a surplus A/C thermostat on top next to the blower, when the heat at the ceiling reaches a certain temp the blower comes on all by itself, when it cools down it goes back off.

He also put a trap door that opens to the outside and one to close off the interior vent. In the summer he flips it on in the evening and it draws all the hot air out over night and cools the shop off, in the morning when he goes out there to work it's nice and cool. The shop is insulated so it takes most of the day to warm back up again.

Best of luck.






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 10-01-2004, 09:41 Post: 97465
Murf



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 Barn heater

Beagle, stop feeding the mice those Johnsonville brots...

The doors of my shop face almsot due south, probably south south-west. The doors are 12' x 12' wood and painted chocolate brown. Even with the furnace off I get enough heat gain on a sunny day to raise the inside temperature by 20 degrees above the outside readings.

Best of luck.






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